You're supposed to keep the bottom button undone because that's how most men's suits these days are cut. If you fasten the bottom button, your suit is likely to fit more tightly around the hips. This causes the sides to flare out a little bit around your torso, throwing your silhouette out of proportion. When standing, it is optional to button the top, the middle always, and the bottom never. On some three-button jackets, the top button hides behind the lapel.
If buttoning the top interferes with the lapel's natural fold, it should be left unbuttoned hence optional. I wouldn't recommend a jacket with more than three buttons. If, for some reason, you feel inclined to wear one with four or more buttons, remember to leave the bottom button undone. You classify a double-breasted jacket with the total number of buttons on the suit front followed by the number of working buttons.
However, men who prefer a longer line have been leaving the lowest button undone, including members of the British royal family, so you're probably safe either way.
It is inadvisable to correct a man in public if you see him violating these rules. They might be breaking a style rule, but never try to make another person look ignorant in front of others.
Especially if he's had a few beers — you might find yourself on the floor with a sore jaw. The single-breasted suit of today was first introduced in , and was referred to as "a lounge suit. It had three buttons, but it was still a little different from the suit of today — it was meant for more casual wear, and had a loose cut so that it looked best when the wearer was holding the reins of a horse. As Amies noted, "of great importance" was to "control the drape the position of the button at the waistline.
The "lounge suit," therefore, began to replace traditional riding coats. The third buttons of riding coats sat below the waist, so they had to be unbuttoned so the jacket draped properly while someone was sitting on a horse. Edward VII decided that the top button should also be undone because it "looked common," according to Amies, leaving only the middle button to secure the coat.
When the lounge suit jacket started to become common as an everyday fashion, Edward VII kept the bottom button undone to pay homage to the riding coat style they replaced. Edward was also legendary for his attention to men's fashion.
In a discussion following Amies's lecture, a fellow of the society asked Amies about waistcoats, and why the bottom buttons of waistcoats like jackets should be left undone. Amies said that tradition is also attributed to Edward. Waistcoats are now cut for the last button not to be done up.
The trend, the Oxford Dictionary notes, "was followed in this in Britain and the empire but not on the continent or in the USA.
Three-button jackets are pretty common, but in the last 40 years, suits have trended toward having two-button jackets. You'll see only two buttons on some of the most trendy suits, like the J. Crew Ludlow. In that case, follow Edward's advice in leaving the bottom button unbuttoned, but do button the top one. We are living in uncertain times. Yet keeping your suit jacket buttoned while seated seems precarious at best and impractical-to-possibly-dangerous at worst.
Well, at least one answer. Followed by at least four more. Okay, five answers. Also, they usually only apply to everyday situations, for the sort of people who sit down at their desks to face a stack of TPS reports, not sit down at their desks to face a camera that beams their likeness into millions of homes. These seated buttoners are most likely trying to evoke the formality of standing and addressing their audience, even when sitting behind a desk or on a stage. And that actually kind of makes sense.
But they still look pretty bad, right? Sure, most of those guys still look bad, but probably not as bad as they would if their suits were unbuttoned while sitting there on TV. Also, there are ways to make it work, especially with the shorter cuts of modern suit jackets and higher button-stances.
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