The northern U. Washington and Oregon are among the top-producing areas in the U. In , the most recent year for which agricultural census data are available, the two states had more than acres in rhubarb production. Rhubarb is very hardy. Low temperatures in spring combined with cultivar genetics aid the development of the pink-to-red external and internal stem pigment that most people like in this crop. High temperatures result in green petioles, which are less desirable to some users.
In warmer areas of Oregon, such as the high-desert region, late afternoon shade in the summer helps keep the plant environment cooler. A deep, rich, well-drained, sandy loam with a soil pH of 6. Soil of this nature with a southern exposure produces the earliest crop, while production from heavier higher clay content soils is usually later. Light soils require more fertilizer and more frequent water than heavier soils. Amending heavy clay soils will improve drainage. If manure is used as an amendment, it should be aged for at least one year.
In well-drained soils, amend a site deep enough to accommodate the roots and up to 24 inches across for individual plants. In heavy soils, amend the entire rhubarb planting area to prevent moisture retention that could cause root rot. If your soil tests below a pH of 6. At planting time, mix a quarter cup of fertilizer with amended native soil and backfill into the top 10 inches of each planting hole. If the rhubarb is being grown for ornamental purposes instead of stalk production, compost added each following year may be enough to keep your plant growing adequately while reducing the size.
Adding a layer of compost 2 to 3 inches thick each year will provide a continuous source of nutrients to the plants. This can be made in split applications in spring and fall, if desired, but wait until the plant has gone dormant in the fall to avoid stimulating new growth late in the season.
When maximum stalk production is the goal, it may be necessary to increase nutrition beyond compost. Sprinkle the fertilizer around the plant, not over the plant, before the stalks and leaves get too big, then water to move the fertilizer into the soil. Rhubarb is a very hardy vegetable and once established can withstand drought conditions well, though it is far less productive when moisture stressed.
Mulching with clean straw or other light organic material will help reduce evaporation of soil moisture and keep the soil temperature more consistent. Mulch should be placed under the leaves but not over the plant crown. Rhubarb grown in areas that are cool and rainy may not need additional irrigation until after the first harvest.
Areas that are hot and dry will need additional irrigation most of the time. Rhubarb stores moisture in its large root system and needs to have good soil moisture to 12 inches deep. Water rhubarb long enough to get the moisture several inches deep and allow the soil surface to dry to a depth of 2 inches in between watering. Wilting or limp leaves is an indication of inadequate water. Lighter, well-drained soils will need more frequent but shorter irrigation times than heavier soils.
Newly transplanted plants will need more frequent watering than established ones. Vegetative propagation by crown division is the recommended method of rhubarb propagation. Large vegetative buds are found on the upper portion of the crowns. Rhubarb should be divided when the plant starts developing 25 to 30 or more smaller stalks instead of 12 to 18 larger stalks.
This is often around the fifth or sixth year after planting but can vary depending on variety and growing conditions. Divide the crowns when the plants are dormant. You can cut each crown into several pieces, each with at least one large bud on it. In the coldest areas, plants should be divided in the spring to allow enough time after division for the root to build reserves before the following winter.
The parent crown should be left with 3 to 5 buds once fully divided. Five- or 6-year-old crowns should give 8 to 10 nice divisions. Divided pieces or purchased plants should be planted in the ground as soon as possible. In large plots, fertilize and work up to 4 inches of compost thoroughly into the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches before planting, or mix compost with the excavated native soil and use this to backfill individual planting holes. All weeds should be removed from the planting site.
In the home garden, rhubarb roots should be spaced 3 to 4 feet apart to give ample room for the plant to grow to full size and to allow for good air flow. This spacing will help reduce the spread of disease.
Plant the top of the crown 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Pack the soil around the newly planted division so that there are no air pockets that might allow the new plant to dry out. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to just go ahead and plant it near their compost piles!
With its ruby stems and umbrella-like leaves, rhubarb also adds height and structure to your garden along with a splash of gorgeous colour that will return year in year out. Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended. It takes several years for rhubarb plants to be mature enough to produce a good harvest. Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic.
See how to naturally lighten your hair with rhubarb. Check out our list of best rhubarb recipes to put your fresh rhubarb to good use! Plus, learn how to make a rhubarb tonic. I inherited the roots about 15 years ago it when my aging father wanted to close down his gardening. The roots originally came from my grandparents place mother's side , split off from their stock that they had been keeping going since the mid 's!!
I have no idea what variety it is but I guess it would be considered 'heirloom"! I always know spring is here when I notice the rhubarb budding up from the ground. It does well in the raised bed but does need some manure top dressing this year.
I decided to establish my rhubarb in a raised bed to keep weeds at bay. I remembered the difficulty of weeding the ground level bed my dad had them in. They were at the edge of the garden and lawn, grass was always invading the rhubarb, and it made for quite a chore to clean it out. My raised bed has been successful at minimizing weeds. Every year it provides all the rhubarb I need and can share.
Once I have harvested all I want I leave the plants to grow and feed the root. I only have to cut off the flower stalks and pluck leaves as they age and are replaced by new ones.
Also, I have heard that rhubarb leaves can be used to make a "tea" extracting the acids and toxins to make a natural pesticide. Does anyone else have any insight into making or using that?
I live is Michigan. I planted 4 new rhubarb crowns from a company in MASS. I planted them 5ft apart in mounds in a sunny location. All 4 came up and looked nice but lately each plant started to get yellow on the outer large leaves. Our garden is new and pretty sandy. We added compost in the spring.
Do you have any ideas? Hi I planted three crowns this year my rhubarb seems to have taken but the leave are full of holes is this okay or should I put down some slug pellets.
Amanda, if you haven't already done so, cut the flower stalk off. It will only sap energy from the plant that you want to go to the stems and roots. You may also want to think about dividing the plants since I assume your mother's patch has been around a while. Lots of good on line advice about that. Good luck with the rhubarb! She always grew and harvested the rhubarb so this is all new to me.
What do I do with this stalk? Leave it? Cut it? Hi--I ordered 2 rhubarb crowns from a seller on Etsy and they have arrived alive. But they are very small. Should I plant these in containers and keep them in my unheated basement near a sunny window for the winter OR should I go ahead and plant them in the prepared raised bed.
I live in NC, growing zone 7b. Thanks for any advice! That is remarkably small. Our research suggests that zone 7b is right on the line of survivability and success, so rather than recommend any particular care, call the coop extension. Can rhubarb still be harvested in Sept? I had heard to only harvest in months with no "R". Yes, that is an old rule of thumb. The idea is that you leave the stalks after August so that they can continue to grow and stay healthy.
Of course, if the stalks get too big, they taste woody and unappetizing so keep that in mind. Can you please advise me as to what I should do with my the leaves from my rhubarb? I was told not to compost them Hi Donna, You can dispose of the rhubarb leaves in your compost.
The oxalic acid in the leaves will be broken down over time, rendering it safe. Make it an annual practice to supplement the soil with either a balanced commercial fertilizer or rich compost, or both. Addition of manure or compost can add micronutrients and organic matter to soil. Note whether growth is vigorous or weak, and adjust the next spring's fertilizer application accordingly. Continuous use of high phosphorus fertilizer such as or , or high rates of manure or manure compost results in phosphorus buildup in the soil.
Some runoff may occur with phosphate fertilizer. It can then become a major pollution concern in our lakes, rivers and streams. High levels of phosphorus support over-production of algae, which causes significant reduction in water quality.
If your soil tests high in phosphorus, use a low phosphorus such as , , or or no phosphorus such as or fertilizer. Selecting plants. Buying rhubarb plants Gardeners often acquire rhubarb plants from another gardener who is dividing a large plant.
Choosing rhubarb varieties Different varieties have varying levels of sourness and fibrousness. Varieties also vary in color from almost pure green to almost pure red. Usually the skin is more or less red, while the flesh color varies from pale to darker green. Color does not cause any specific flavors. Redder varieties are desirable for pies, because the color of the filling is more attractive than the grayish color of cooked green varieties.
Plant stature and vigor also vary among varieties. In general, greener varieties are more vigorous and have longer stalks than red varieties. Rhubarb leaves are toxic.
Do not eat them. Only the long, thick leaf petioles, the "stalks," are edible. The stalks contain high levels of oxalic acid, which can tie up calcium and make it unavailable in the body. Eating an occasional dish containing rhubarb does not pose a serious nutritional threat.
People with gout, kidney disorders and rheumatoid arthritis may want to avoid foods high in oxalic acid and should consult with their physicians about consuming these foods. How to keep your rhubarb plants healthy and productive. Planting Rhubarb plants are very large.
Starting seeds indoors and transplanting Start seed indoors six weeks before the last frost date for your area. Cover the seed lightly, keep moist and supply bottom heat to improve germination and seedling health.
It may be two or three weeks before seedlings emerge. Harden plants off for at least a week before planting out in the garden.
Prepare the soil by tilling or forking to a depth of at least two feet, to allow the new plants to root easily. Add plenty of garden and kitchen compost or composted manure to increase organic matter, improve drainage and supply nutrients. It is best to prepare the soil and let it settle for a few days before planting, so that newly set plants do not end up too deep. Plant seedlings, divisions from a neighbor's garden and plants bought in pots at garden centers at the same depth they are growing in the pot.
Plant bare-root plants bought through the mail with the crown of the plant just level with the soil. Water well after planting. Watering Proper watering will help rhubarb growth. Controlling weeds A giant rhubarb plant can be a strong competitor against weeds. While the plant is establishing itself during the first year or two, keep weeds controlled by hoeing or hand pulling.
Frequent, shallow cultivation will kill weeds before they become a problem. Be careful not to damage the plants when cultivating. Keep your tool away from the plant itself.
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